Fun waves today. Chest to head-plus. Fast lefts. A few barrels. Air temp 22, water 38.
From my 8×10 Surfer Portraits project. York Beach, Maine.
New Smyrna is where I began surfing in the ’80’s. We would see these sharks all the time. “Spinners”. They would attack fish with so much speed that they would come flying out of the water 2-4 feet, spinning violently. This is when I began sitting with my feet up on the nose of my board . Now I sit that way to keep my toes warm.